Hope everyone had a great Christmas!
This is the lesson for the December class, thanks for your patience since I'm late getting it posted.
For each block you will need
4 of your HST pieces, (Half Square Triangles from last months class), 4 -4 ½ inch squares of background fabric and 1-4 ½ inch square of the
colored fabric C.
You have 4 blocks to make so
you will need a total of 16-HSTs, 16- background squares and 4 –
Fabric C squares.
We will make one block to
start. On a flat surface close to your sewing machine layout the
pieces for the block.
Top row will be a HST with
the background fabric half on the outside. A background square and
another HST, again with the background half facing the outside.
Second row will be a
background square, the Fabric C square and another background square
Thrid row will be a repeat
of the top row HST with the background fabric half on the outside. A
background square and another HST, again with the background half
facing the outside.
Get your sewing machine
ready, check the bobbin, make sure you have a size 80 or 90 universal
needle in the machine. Use a neutral colored thread, I use a 50
weight 100 % cotton for piecing but you can use polyester thread like
Coats& Clark general sewing thread. Over time (years ) polyester
might damage the fabric. I've used it before and have had no
problems. Remember you are using a scant ¼ inch seam allowance.(Refer to the handout from the first class if you need a copy contact me by email) For
those of you use to garment sewing this will seem very small but we
don't want the bulk of a wider seam. Set your stitch length at a 3
or just a little a longer then normal. If you are at home make sure
you have decent lighting and a comfortable chair, (desk chairs that
can be adjust are nice). Keep scissors and seam ripper handy. I also
have a little bag hanging from the table to toss trimmed threads
into. Set up your iron and a surface for pressing close by. If you
don't want to drag an ironing board into the room you can use a
couple layers of towels and piece of sheet or muslin over the towels
on a flat surface, maybe on a one of the those wooden tv tray tables.
Pick up the outside edge of
the top left hand HST and simply flip it over the Background square
next to it. You are going to sew along that left edge if you have to
carry the piece to the sewing machine stick a pin along that edge (it
would be the sides of the two pieces that will touch in the block)
so that when you get to the machine you know for sure which edge to
sew. Really 2 feet away and I've managed to get pieces turned
around!
Match the raw edges of the squares, you use pins if you want,
just be careful and DO NOT sew over the pins. Pins break needles and
you can mess up your machine, not to mention flying pieces of needles are not good for the eyes. Sew the squares together, keeping that
quarter inch seam allowance. Cut your threads, open up the piece and
check to make sure 1. that you've sewn the right edges together and 2
that the top and bottoms are even.
Now take the section you've
just finished and lay it back in place with rest of the block. Flip
the remaining HST in that row over the other end of the background
square, matching the raw edges. Pin along the edge you will sewing
together. Sew together.
You basically repeat the
process for the other two rows starting on the left sewing the
squares together.
When you have all 3 rows together it is time to
press. 1st press the seam allowance flat to set the seam.
| Pressing the seam flat |
| Arrow indicate direction to press seam |
Once you've pressed the
seam allowances it is time to sew the rows together. Flip the top row
over on to the middle row. The bottom edge of the top row should be
lined up with top edge of the middle row. Now for the magic of the
pressed seams. Where the seams meet each seam should be going in
opposite directions, they should nestle up against each other nicely
making smooth transition. Place pins to hold them together.
| Seams nestled or butted up against each other |
Sew the
rows together. When you open the pieces up your seam lines should
meet. Now lay that piece with the last row. Flip the bottom row over
the middle row so the top edge of the bottom row is matched with
bottom edge of the middle row. Get those seam allowances nestled
together and sew. Now you press the 2 seam allowances You can press
them both in the same direction.
Once that is done take the block to your cutting mat and using a ruler or a ruler and the mat check to see that the block is 12 ½ inches. If it is a smidgen off don't panic, you can still work with it. If parts are more then ¼ inch off you have to do some ripping. Usually you just have to adjust your seam allowance.
| The back of a finished block |
| Front of a finished block |
Once that is done take the block to your cutting mat and using a ruler or a ruler and the mat check to see that the block is 12 ½ inches. If it is a smidgen off don't panic, you can still work with it. If parts are more then ¼ inch off you have to do some ripping. Usually you just have to adjust your seam allowance.

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